Modern decks and stairways are increasingly framed not by chunky wood balusters, but by thin, stainless-steel cables that almost disappear against the view. As a builder who treats guardrails as life-safety equipment first and design elements second, I hear the same question over and over: are cable railings actually safe, especially when the cables run horizontally like a ladder?
The honest answer is nuanced. Properly engineered and maintained cable railings can be every bit as safe as traditional systems. Poorly designed or neglected systems are not. Horizontal orientation adds a layer of judgment around children and climbing, and local codes sometimes react to that perception.
In this article I will break down what “safe” really means for a railing, what the data and codes say about cable systems, how horizontal and vertical cables compare from an anti-climb standpoint, and how to design a system that keeps people on the deck where they belong.
What “Safe” Actually Means For A Railing
Before debating horizontal versus vertical cables, you need a clear definition of safety. In the code world, cable railing is not decor, it is a guardrail system whose primary job is fall protection.
Model codes such as the International Residential Code and International Building Code, summarized by manufacturers like Inline Design, Inso Supply, Muzata, Atlantis Rail, Cable Bullet, and RailFX, converge on a few key requirements.
A guard is the barrier at the open edge of a deck, balcony, or stair landing. In typical one- and two-family homes, guards must be at least about 36 inches high when the drop is more than roughly 30 inches. Many commercial and multi-family projects push that minimum to 42 inches. On stairs, the graspable handrail that you hold is usually required between 34 and 38 inches above the stair nosings, and in many cases it is separate from the top guardrail.
The top of a guard must be strong. Codes referenced in these manufacturer guides require a concentrated load of about 200 pounds applied at any point in any direction, plus a uniform load often around 50 pounds per linear foot along the top rail. Infill such as cables has its own performance expectation: it must resist about 50 pounds spread over a one-square-foot area without deflecting enough to create an opening larger than allowed.
That opening limit is enforced by the “4-inch sphere rule” described by Inso Supply, Muzata, Atlantis Rail, RailFX, and others. If you press a rigid 4-inch-diameter ball anywhere against the infill, it should not pass through. On stairs, codes allow a slightly larger 4⅜-inch sphere between angled elements and up to 6 inches in the triangular gap at the bottom, but the principle is the same. The system must keep a small child’s head and body on the deck side of the railing.
To understand the forces involved, imagine a 10-foot run of deck guard. Under common code criteria, that guard might need to resist 50 pounds per linear foot horizontally along its top, or 500 pounds spread along the span, as well as a 200-pound person leaning hard at a single point. If you use ten cables in that guard, and each is tensioned somewhere between about 70 and 200 pounds as suggested by guidance from Inso Supply and other technical sources, the end posts see cumulative forces on the order of a thousand pounds or more. That is why serious manufacturers treat cable railings as engineered systems, not as a few wires strung between deck posts.
When you ask whether cable railings are safe, the real question is whether your particular design, materials, and installation can meet and sustain these requirements over time.
Can Cable Railings Be As Safe As Traditional Systems?
From a purely structural standpoint, cable railings absolutely can be safe when designed around the rules above. High-quality systems from manufacturers such as Inline Design, Muzata, Atlantis Rail, Cable Bullet, and others rely on Type 316 stainless-steel cable in a stiff 1×19 construction, usually in diameters around 1/8 inch. That cable is designed to be low-stretch, corrosion-resistant, and capable of carrying high tension for decades with basic care.
Posts and top rails are typically steel, aluminum, or engineered wood, sized to carry the combined load of every cable pulling on them. Atlantis Rail notes that when you tension 10 to 13 cables on a typical run, you can easily impose upwards of a thousand pounds of force on each end post. That is why good systems specify heavier posts, reinforcements, and anchors at corners and terminations.
Inline Design and similar guides emphasize careful spacing. Posts are usually placed no more than about 4 feet on center for horizontal systems, with intermediate supports added for long runs or high loads. Vertically, manufacturers such as Atlantis Rail recommend spacing cables at roughly 3 inches on center rather than pushing the 4-inch limit. With that spacing and proper tension, Atlantis Rail’s testing suggests that a person pushing on the cables will produce an opening of about 3¾ inches, still within the 4-inch sphere rule.
From a safety perspective, that means a properly built cable system can provide the same effective barrier as a set of wood balusters, but with less visual obstruction. Geobezdan and Muzata both highlight that well-built stainless-steel cable railings are strong, durable, and inherently suitable for stair and deck guarding when installed and tensioned correctly.
To visualize a simple design, consider a residential deck that needs a 36-inch guard along a 20-foot edge. Using the guidelines from Inline Design and Atlantis Rail, you might design that run with posts spaced every 4 feet, giving you six posts, and vertical cable spacing at roughly 3 inches. A 36-inch guard would often use about ten cables, so you are threading and tensioning ten runs between each end post, and every design choice you make around posts, rails, and tension hardware has to support those forces without permanent deflection.
The conclusion most code-oriented manufacturers reach is clear: cable railing is not inherently unsafe. It is as safe as its engineering, installation, and maintenance allow it to be.
Structural Design Factors That Control Safety
On real projects the cable itself is rarely the weak link. The problems come from underbuilt framing, poor detailing, or casual maintenance. The technical guides from Inso Supply, Atlantis Rail, Muzata, Inline Design, Cable Bullet, and RailFX highlight a common set of structural factors.
First is the top rail and posts. The top rail cannot be a cable; it must be a stiff member, usually wood, steel, or aluminum. Inline Design, Inso Supply, and RailFX all call for the top rail to resist that 200-pound concentrated load without excessive flex. Wood may need hidden steel reinforcement, especially on long spans, to avoid sagging or twisting when the cables are tensioned.
End and corner posts need special attention because they collect the tension from multiple cables. Inso Supply notes that tensioning ten to thirteen cables can add up to roughly 1,300 pounds of force on an end post. A nominal 4×4 wood post, especially if notched, is often inadequate without reinforcement. Many engineered systems specify 6×6 wood posts, heavy-wall aluminum or steel tubes, or concealed steel stiffeners, and they prohibit notching of structural posts.
Second is spacing and deflection control. Most technical guides converge on keeping structural posts at 4 feet on center or less, with intermediate braces on long runs or at direction changes. Cables are typically spaced around 3 inches vertically. This combination is what allows the cables to be tensioned firmly enough that when you push on them, the opening does not widen beyond 4 inches.
Inline Design also limits straight cable runs to about 30 feet when using 1/8 inch cable and calls for termination or corner posts at changes in direction. Longer runs increase stretch and deflection and make it harder to maintain uniform tension.
Third is material selection and detailing. Outdoor systems almost always rely on Type 316 stainless steel for cables and fittings because it is more resistant to corrosion and salt than common 304 stainless. Inso Supply and RailFX also warn about galvanic corrosion where dissimilar metals touch; isolating stainless fittings from aluminum posts with inserts or sleeves is standard practice in quality systems.
When you combine these rules of thumb with the basic code requirements, you can see why most manufacturers offer complete pre-engineered systems. They have already checked that the posts, rails, anchors, and cable layouts work together as a unit.
Common Failure Modes Seen In The Field
When cable railings get a reputation for being unsafe, it is usually because of a handful of recurring mistakes rather than the concept itself. The issues that Promenaid highlights in its critique of cable systems line up closely with what technical sources and field experience show.
Loss of tension over time is the first problem. Wood shrinks, fasteners settle, temperature cycles the metal. As Muzata, Inso Supply, Atlantis Rail, and Cable Bullet all note, cables need at least one re-tensioning after installation and then periodic checks. When owners skip this, cables sag, openings grow, and the system can fail the 4-inch sphere test even if it passed inspection initially.
Underbuilt end posts are another. Inso Supply directly warns that any post that bows during tensioning must be reinforced. In the field, you sometimes see deck posts that were sized for a simple wood guard but then retrofitted with cable infill, or posts that were notched or fastened with undersized hardware. That is a recipe for long-term creep, permanent lean, or outright failure under load.
Poor infill spacing and detailing also show up regularly. Cables spaced at 4 inches rather than around 3 inches, missing intermediate braces on long runs, or wide gaps at the deck surface can all produce openings that fail the sphere rule once someone leans on the infill. Atlantis Rail’s recommendation of 3-inch cable spacing is meant precisely to give you a safety margin under deflection.
Finally, corrosion and damaged cables matter. Promenaid points to frayed or poorly installed cables that can scratch skin or catch clothing. Coastal environments accelerate corrosion, and both Muzata and Cable Bullet recommend more frequent inspection and cleaning—every three to six months in harsh marine climates. Surface rust on stainless steel is usually cosmetic, as Viewrail notes, but pitting, broken strands, or seized fittings are not.
When you design and maintain with these failure modes in mind, cable railing becomes a predictable structural system, not a gamble.
Are Horizontal Cable Railings Safe Around Children?
Horizontal cable railings raise a specific concern known as the “ladder effect.” The worry is simple: a run of horizontal cables looks to a toddler like a climbing toy. Promenaid strongly argues that this makes cable railings, especially horizontal ones, a poor choice in homes with toddlers. MMC Fencing & Railing similarly notes that horizontal layouts can encourage children to climb, can be restricted by some local codes, and can even affect resale because of perceived safety issues.
On the other side, manufacturers such as Atlantis Rail and AT Improvements cite data submitted to the International Code Council by groups including the National Association of Home Builders and the National Ornamental and Miscellaneous Metals Association. In that research, falls from railings among children roughly between one and a half and four years old accounted for only about 0.032 percent of all fall injuries in that age range. Doors, windows, fences, and similar elements represented much higher fall risks.
Atlantis Rail also points out a very practical hazard: patio furniture. A child who pushes a chair against any railing—cable, wood, or glass—and climbs onto the chair has effectively raised the floor above the top rail. In day-to-day family life, that is often the real driver of falls, not the orientation of the infill.
Interestingly, Coastal Cable even describes horizontal cable designs as sleek and difficult to climb, arguing that tight spacing and smooth cables reduce footholds compared with some traditional baluster layouts. That contrasts with Promenaid’s more cautious stance and illustrates that even among specialists there is disagreement on how big the ladder-effect risk is in practice.
What is consistent is that national model codes such as the IRC and IBC, as summarized by Inso Supply, Muzata, Inline Design, Atlantis Rail, and Cable Bullet, do not ban horizontal infill outright. They regulate opening size, height, and load, and leave orientation to the designer and local authority. Some municipalities, as VIVA Railings and MMC Fencing note, have chosen to restrict or prohibit horizontal infill anyway, precisely because of these climbing concerns.
What The Data And Codes Really Tell Us
Taken together, the code framework and the injury statistics suggest a few important points.
First, the model codes are primarily concerned with fall-through, not climbing. The 4-inch sphere rule is about ensuring that a child cannot slip or push through the guard. Properly designed horizontal or vertical cable systems can satisfy that rule; loose or poorly spaced systems of any type cannot.
Second, documented falls from railings in toddlers appear to be a very small slice of overall fall injuries in that age group, according to the data cited by Atlantis Rail and AT Improvements. That does not mean these falls never happen, but it does mean railings are not the most common way young children get hurt.
Third, climbing behavior is highly individual. Some children will climb anything; others will not, even when they could. For families who know they have enthusiastic climbers, the conservative choice is to minimize horizontal elements wherever possible, regardless of the statistics.
As a builder, I interpret this as a call for layered protection. Codes give you a baseline; you then adjust the design for your users and your jurisdiction.
When Horizontal Cables Are A Poor Fit
There are scenarios where I would steer a homeowner away from horizontal cable infill even if it is technically allowed.
Homes with toddlers or very young children who are left unsupervised on upper decks are one example. Promenaid’s position that cable railings are generally not a wise choice for households with toddlers is intentionally conservative, and MMC Fencing’s recommendation for vertical infill in such cases supports that stance.
High-traffic public or commercial spaces where adult supervision of children is limited are another. Here the risk is not only climbing behavior but also tampering, rough use, and the difficulty of ensuring ongoing maintenance. Promenaid emphasizes tamper-resistant, rigid infill in these environments for exactly that reason.
Some condominium complexes and homeowner associations also prefer to avoid horizontal infill because of perception, uniformity, or insurance concerns. San Diego Cable Railings notes that HOA rules and architectural guidelines can strongly influence allowable railing types, so in these settings vertical or rigid infill often passes more smoothly through the approval process.
In any of these cases, if the primary goal is to keep vulnerable users safe with minimal supervision, rigid vertical balusters, perforated aluminum panels, or tempered glass panels like those promoted by Promenaid offer a more inherently anti-climb design.
Making Horizontal Cables Safer When You Do Use Them
If horizontal cable fits your design and your local code allows it, there are practical ways to reduce climbing opportunities.
Increasing guard height to 42 inches where permitted gives children a higher target to reach before they can clear the top rail. The IBC makes 42 inches a standard minimum in many commercial and multi-family projects, and some jurisdictions, such as several in California, apply that same height to residential work, as noted by Inso Supply and Cable Bullet. For a child of a given height, adding those extra 6 inches on the guard makes a meaningful difference in how far they need to climb.
Minimizing intermediate horizontal surfaces is just as important. Wide midrails or decorative ledges below the top rail can act as steps. A clean design that uses a slim top rail, tightly spaced cables, and no additional horizontal elements reduces footholds.
Controlling furniture placement is a simple but often overlooked step. Keeping benches, box planters, and movable seating away from the guard makes it harder for a child to create an improvised ladder.
For families with toddlers who still want the cable aesthetic, a hybrid approach can work. MMC Fencing’s vertical cable systems offer pre-assembled, pre-tensioned panels with cables running up and down, combining the transparency of cable with a more anti-climb orientation. Another option Promenaid suggests indirectly is to pair a sleek guard framework with rigid infill panels—steel balusters, perforated aluminum, or tempered glass—that present no footholds at all. In practice, some homeowners also install temporary clear barriers behind horizontal cables for the first few years and remove them once children are older and more aware.
Horizontal Versus Vertical Cables And Rigid Infill
When deciding between horizontal and vertical cables—or between cables and more rigid infill—it helps to compare them along a few practical dimensions. Drawing on MMC Fencing, Promenaid, VIVA Railings, Muzata, and others, the contrasts look roughly like this.
Infill type |
Climb behavior with kids |
Maintenance and durability |
Code and inspection friction |
Best use cases |
Horizontal stainless cables |
Perceived as more climbable; behavior depends heavily on the child |
Very durable; low cleaning; requires periodic re-tensioning |
Allowed by model codes; sometimes restricted locally due to ladder-effect concerns |
Scenic decks and balconies where view and airflow are top priorities |
Vertical cables |
Reduced ladder effect; children more likely to test gaps than climb |
Similar durability; factory-assembled panels can simplify care |
Generally seen as more child-friendly; fewer resale and code concerns |
Family decks, HOAs, and situations where you want cable but worry about climbing |
Rigid balusters or panels |
Strongly anti-climb when oriented vertically or as solid/holed panels |
Depends on material; glass and coated metals are low maintenance |
Codes are familiar with these; usually least controversial |
Homes with toddlers, public spaces, and projects prioritizing safety above all else |
MMC Fencing explicitly recommends vertical cable systems as typically safer and less labor-intensive than horizontal, and notes that they reduce both code friction and resale concerns. Promenaid’s definition of a truly safe railing focuses on rigid infill with no ladder-like elements, tamper-proof construction, and smooth surfaces.
Cable systems, whether horizontal or vertical, excel at preserving views and airflow and avoiding some of the cleaning issues associated with glass. They are also bird-friendly compared with large glass surfaces, as MMC Fencing points out, because cables are easier for birds to perceive and avoid.
The right choice depends on your mix of priorities: view, child behavior, local code environment, and tolerance for ongoing tension maintenance.
How To Design A Safe, Code-Compliant Cable Railing
Once you decide that cable railing is appropriate for your setting, the safest pathway is to design from the code outward rather than from the catalog inward. The technical guidance from Inso Supply, Inline Design, Muzata, Atlantis Rail, Cable Bullet, RailFX, and Metal Innovations points toward a clear design process.
Confirm Your Rules First
Cable railing projects live under at least two layers of rules. The first is the model code—IRC for typical one- and two-family homes and IBC for most commercial and multi-family buildings. The second is your local amendments, zoning conditions, and, in many cases, HOA or architectural-control guidelines.
Under the IRC, guardrails generally must be at least 36 inches high on decks and level surfaces where the drop exceeds about 30 inches. Stairs require grasphable handrails between 34 and 38 inches high, measured at the tread nosings, and some stair guards may be permitted as low as around 34 inches depending on the version adopted, according to Inso Supply. Under the IBC, many jurisdictions require 42-inch guards on levels and maintain the 34–38-inch range for handrails.
Cable Bullet and Inso Supply both point out that some states and cities set stricter standards than the model codes. For example, many California jurisdictions require 42-inch guard height even in residential applications, and coastal or hurricane-prone areas often impose tougher engineering and corrosion standards.
The practical takeaway is simple. Before you purchase a single fitting, confirm with your local building department that cable infill is permitted in the orientation you want and ask them to point you to any local variations on height, loading, or infill rules. If you live in an HOA community, review your covenants, conditions, and architectural guidelines as San Diego Cable Railings recommends, and secure formal approval if required.
Size The Structure Before The Cables
With the rules in hand, you can size the top rails, posts, and anchors. Manufacturers like Inline Design and Atlantis Rail emphasize that you design the guard as a system.
Assume that your top rail must comfortably carry a 200-pound concentrated load at midspan and resist a uniform 50 pounds per foot or more along its length without objectionable deflection. In a 16-foot run, that uniform load equates to around 800 pounds distributed, plus the focused 200-pound load. A tall, slim wood top rail without reinforcement may flex too much under that combination, especially when combined with the tension from the cables. Many successful installations use aluminum or steel top rails or wood caps backed by steel.
For posts, take the cumulative cable tension seriously. If you have ten cables, each tensioned near the lower end of the 70–200-pound range discussed by Inso Supply, you might have around 1,000 to 1,500 pounds pulling on each end post. That is why Inso Supply recommends reinforcing any post that bows under tension and, in many cases, upsizing posts or using steel within wood to carry the load. Avoid notching structural posts; run bolts and brackets into solid cross-section, and follow the span and spacing tables provided by your chosen system.
Keep Deflection Under Control
Even strong posts and rails will not yield a safe system if the cables are spaced too far apart or left loose. Atlantis Rail, Muzata, and Cable Bullet all converge on a simple rule: treat 4 inches as an absolute maximum opening and aim for smaller.
Atlantis Rail recommends vertical spacing of roughly 3 inches between cables. Cable Bullet suggests similar spacing so that when you push, the opening still stays below the 4-inch sphere limit. Post spacing is usually held at 4 feet on center or closer, with some systems allowing slightly longer spans when intermediate stabilizer bars are used.
Inline Design limits straight cable runs to around 30 feet when using 1/8-inch 1×19 Type 316 cable. Longer runs increase stretch and make even tensioning much harder. Terminating runs at corners and returns, as Inline Design advises, helps keep deflection under control.
Practically, you can test deflection yourself. Once the system is installed and tensioned, push firmly on a midspan cable and look at the gap. If you can clearly imagine pushing a 4-inch-diameter ball through, your spacing or tension is off. Many pros bring an actual 4-inch sphere or a simple gauge to the inspection.
Pre-Engineered System Versus Custom DIY
You have two broad choices for building a cable system. One is to buy a pre-engineered package from a manufacturer such as Muzata, Cable Bullet, Atlantis Rail, MMC Fencing, or Viewrail. The other is to assemble your own system from generic components.
Inso Supply explains why pre-engineered systems are attractive: they come with tested combinations of posts, rails, cables, and fittings that are sized to work together and often include engineering documentation to support permit review. That reduces the risk that you underbuild a critical component without realizing it.
Metal Innovations outlines the trade-offs between DIY and professional installation. Doing the work yourself can save labor costs on the order of roughly 30 dollars per linear foot and, in their example, materials for a 10-foot run might range from about 110 to 380 dollars depending on the system and materials. For a 30-foot deck edge, you could scale that up and expect materials in roughly the low hundreds to over a thousand dollars, plus your time.
The drawbacks of DIY are clear: cable railing demands accurate layout, precise drilling, and disciplined tensioning. Metal Innovations cautions that mistakes in planning or installation can undermine safety and that some manufacturers limit warranties if the system is not installed by a professional. For straightforward projects and experienced DIYers, a pre-engineered kit with clear instructions from a company like Muzata or Cable Bullet can be a good middle ground. For complex geometry, difficult site conditions, or high occupancy loads, bringing in a contractor or engineer familiar with cable systems is the safer route.
Plan For Maintenance From Day One
Cable railing has a reputation for low maintenance, and compared with stained wood balusters that need refinishing every few years, that reputation is deserved. Muzata, VIVA Railings, MMC Fencing, and Cable Bullet all describe cable systems as primarily needing cleaning with mild soap and water and occasional tension checks, rather than sanding, painting, or staining.
However, “low maintenance” does not mean “no maintenance.” Inso Supply and Atlantis Rail both stress that cables can loosen after initial installation as wood framing settles and temperature cycles the metal. They recommend re-checking tension after the first few weeks or the first season, and then annually. Cable Bullet proposes a similar schedule: an annual cleaning and tension check in typical climates, and every three to six months in coastal or particularly harsh environments.
Viewrail adds that applying a stainless-steel polish or sealant to exposed metal, especially cable strands with micro-grooves that can trap moisture, can extend the life of the finish. Surface rust on stainless posts or cables is often just that—surface discoloration—and can be removed with stainless cleaner and a rag or a light abrasive such as a Scotch-Brite pad. The important practice is to inspect for deeper pitting, broken strands, or loose fittings and address those issues promptly.
If you treat the annual cable check like changing smoke-detector batteries or servicing a furnace, cable railing can remain safe and attractive for decades.
Common Questions About Cable Railing Safety
How can I quickly tell if my existing cable railing is still safe?
Start with height and gaps. Measure from the walking surface to the top of the guard; in most residential contexts you should see at least 36 inches, and in many others 42 inches. Then look at the openings. If you can imagine a 4-inch-diameter ball passing between cables or between the lowest cable and the deck when you push on them, the system likely needs tension adjustment or rework.
Next, inspect the posts and top rails while you lean against the system. You should not see posts visibly bow or the top rail twist under your weight. Finally, scan the cables and fittings for broken strands, sharp ends, or corrosion. The technical guides from Atlantis Rail, Inso Supply, and Cable Bullet all treat these checks as part of routine ownership.
How often will I need to tighten the cables?
Expect at least one re-tensioning shortly after installation. Inso Supply and Atlantis Rail recommend a follow-up check a few weeks or a season after the system goes in, because wood movement and hardware seating often loosen cables slightly. After that, most manufacturers, including Muzata and Cable Bullet, suggest annual tension checks in ordinary climates and more frequent inspection—every three to six months—in coastal or severe environments.
The actual adjustment is generally simple with modern systems; many use accessible tensioners that can be turned with basic hand tools such as an Allen wrench. The important part is not the difficulty of tightening, but the discipline of scheduling and performing the checks.
Will a vertical cable or rigid-infill system make my inspection smoother?
In many jurisdictions, yes. MMC Fencing specifically recommends vertical cable systems as safer and less controversial than horizontal ones, partly because they reduce concerns about climbing and resale perception. Promenaid goes further and promotes rigid infills such as vertical balusters, perforated aluminum panels, or tempered glass as the safest choices, especially in environments with toddlers, older adults, or users with limited vision or balance.
Model codes do not explicitly disfavor horizontal infill, as Inso Supply, Muzata, and Cable Bullet all point out, but some local authorities and HOAs do. If you know you are working with a conservative inspector, a vertical or rigid system often avoids debates about the ladder effect and lets everyone focus on objective criteria like height, spacing, and load performance.
Closing Thoughts
Cable railing is not inherently safe or unsafe. It is a high-performance guardrail system that demands the same level of structural thinking you would give to beams and foundations. When you respect the loads, follow the 4-inch sphere rule, choose proven materials, and commit to periodic tension checks, a cable guard—horizontal or vertical—can protect people every bit as reliably as a traditional railing while opening up your views.
Where very young children or vulnerable users are involved, leaning toward vertical cables or rigid anti-climb infill is a prudent choice. Where sweeping views and clean lines matter most, a well-designed horizontal cable system can be both beautiful and robust. Approach it like a master builder: start from the codes, design conservatively for real people and real behavior, and let aesthetics follow a structure you trust.
References
- https://www.railfx.net/cable-railing-a-safe-railing-option-for-homeowners/
- https://promenaid.com/?post_type=post&p=35647&srsltid=AfmBOoq82xgPDW-J-o1yj8eoY4hpQq315EsvkLmMhA_3Won_DyXmYlpR
- https://atimprovements.com/cable-railing-everything-you-need-to-know/
- https://www.atlantisrail.com/cable-railing-safety-code-and-compliance/
- https://www.coastal-cable.com/5-safety-benefits-of-cable-railings/
- https://www.finehomebuilding.com/forum/cable-railings-2
- https://www.geobezdan.com/news/pros-cons-cable-railings
- https://inlinedesign.com/pages/cable-railing?srsltid=AfmBOopVJ1Obd8FAU9yqsZ3NG7i2aXKkrdRwOy0WfkmNnKLtcxqxwdLd
- https://mmcfencingandrailing.com/cable-railings/
- https://www.sandiegocablerailings.com/code-compliance/
